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Billy Gould
Editor at large
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Jean Anthelme Brillat–Savarin Posthumous portrait, 1848

Brillat-Savarin & The Monday Club

Tell me what you eat and
I’ll tell you who you are

Thus spake not Zarathustra, but Jean Anthelme Brillat–Savarin, with his usual blend of perspicacity and pomposity in his masterpiece: The Physiology of Taste or Transcendental Gastronomy.


Imagine my horror when I read – on Wikipedia – that Savarin’s reputation had mushroomed due to the liberal use of the above quote in the ludicrous American cookery show Iron Chef.


His name had come up earlier on a radio show when we were talking about the notion of ‘resting’ meat prior to serving. I suggested it was a relatively new concept dreamt up by the chemist/gastronome Herve This and then, literally, had to start backtracking.


Harold McGee had done much of the groundwork in his seminal 1984 work - On Food And Cooking: The Science and Lore Of The Kitchen. Before long I was inevitably reminded that Savarin – the godfather of Gastronomy – had written of the benefits of resting meat, particularly game – as far back as 1825.


Many of Brillat-Savarins apercus about food, coined in the late 18th century, still ring true today despite their didactic tone.


Here is one that any restaurant would appreciate: The most indispensable quality of a good cook is promptness it should also be that of the guests.


This could have come from the lips of Heston Blumenthal: The number of flavours is infinite, for every soluble body has a peculiar flavour, like none other.


I did say in my introduction that he could be pompous: The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a new star.


He was not afraid to be ‘racy’: Truffles arouse erotic memories among the skirted sex.

And this not long before he died: “A man who was fond of wine was offered some grapes at dessert after dinner. “Much obliged,” said he, pushing the plate aside; “I am not accustomed to take my wine in pills.”


And last but by no means least, a true humanist: The pleasure of the table belongs to all ages, to all conditions and to all areas; it mingles with all other pleasures, and remains at last to console us for their departure…


N.B. Gourmandising must have run in the family, his sister died in her hundredth year – having eaten a substantial meal – whilst shouting for her dessert.


Meanwhile over at South Leith Parish Church

Jonathan Murray, descendant of John Murray who died in 1820 and whose grave and memorial stone sits in our churchyard, revisited the site in May this year to lay flowers. Jonathan lives in Baltimore, USA and for each of the past two years has ensured he incorporated trips to Leith when in the UK, to reflect back on his family roots.


One of the delights of working with the ‘Monday Club’ - the churchyard team – is when we talk with folks from near and far. You just never know where the conversation is going to take you. Jonathan has followed up on his words and has been generous in actively contributing to help support the work and outreach of the congregation.


Over to Jonathan: ‘My name is Jonathan Murray and I am the fourth-times great grandson of John and Janet Murray who are buried in grave 305 there at the North & South Leith Parish Church.


Each time I return to Leith, I love to able to pay my respects and leave some flowers at their grave, On a visit last year, I had the good fortune to meet two of the church’s volunteers (Arthur and Stephen) who were kind enough to give my wife and I a tour and tell us about the work the church is doing in the community. We were very impressed with both the physical presence of the church (stunning), its history, and the current services being offered.


I returned again this year, and while paying my respects I had the good fortune to meet Sheena, who gave me a current email address’.


The churchyard really is a space where you can acknowledge and/or chat with folks, helping them see that the congregation is “alive and kicking”! Come along on a Monday afternoon and try it (sweeping, cutting grass, picking litter, etc) for two Mondays.


Ask for Arthur or Stephen…

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