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Graham Ross
Through a Glass Darkly
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Crab and Scratch, keepers of the flame

Just Five Words

Well, that’s if you count “O” as a word. Just five words that conjure up thousands of memories of nights out that careered from fever-dream Abba singalongs...

To mass tribal dancing while Iggy Pop’s “The Passenger” threatened to undo the bolts holding the mass gantry to the wall. Or reminiscences of crowded quiet remembrance as another beloved friend, regular and solid human sadly left the party. And befuddled curious tourists who waited patiently for service and were told that it would be forthcoming once the staff had stopped dancing and descended from the bar. And that soft welcoming light that drew you in as you stepped off the tram late at night, and settled in for the most entertaining nightcap anywhere in the city.


Yes, you’ve guessed it. Those five words: the Port O’ Leith Bar. Or amongst the thousands of aficionados who walked with a spring in their step through the door, simply, the Port. The bar has been a much-loved institution in Leith for decades and for those of a certain age, it will always be associated with the former owner, Mary Moriarty who was well known as being something of a softly spoken benign dictator when it came to keeping everyone in line. One word, or even a raised eyebrow in your direction was enough to let you know that you were approaching the line and it was not, under any circumstances, to be crossed. Message understood.


I’m guessing that most readers will know that the Port recently closed its doors temporarily and had its lease put up for renewal. Local newspapers reported that this was following a number of noise complaints from local residents which had resulted in the most recent leaseholder, Craig Smith, stepping down from the helm. At the time of writing, the bar is still closed, and given the circumstances, it’s a fair bet that those of us who frequented it over the years have not only lost one of the most iconic and friendly watering holes in Leith, but also, and worryingly, another part of Leith’s soul.


When news of the Port’s closure started to circulate, many long-term local residents started to question whether the huge transformation which Leith had undergone in recent years had now gone far enough. Were people who were moving into the area really invested in preserving its unique cultural history and community orientated atmosphere? Or were the long established threads which had woven and preserved the independent spirit of the place slowly starting to unravel as the pace of gentrification quickened?

For those Leithers like myself who have been here forever, it’s easy to identify the physical changes which have led to these legitimate questions being asked. There’s absolutely no doubt that the finalisation of the tram project has had a fundamental impact on accessibility and the environment which has led to more and more businesses viewing Leith as a prime spot in which to set up.


Cafes, restaurants, bars and artisan bakeries are flourishing, along with business start-ups in fields such as media and architecture. Leith Walk is one of the most densely populated areas in the UK, and while many businesses are independent and the big chains are less visible, the proliferation of these businesses along with huge hikes in rent, have seen many long-established local outlets and shops disappearing. High rents equal high prices and many locals genuinely feel that the place they once knew and recognised is slowly fading from view. The average price for a flat in Leith is currently around £250,150.

So what has all this got to do with the Port O’ Leith bar?


Well, can Leith be noisy? Yes, it’s got something to do with the unique spirit of the place, its people, and the fact that we like to sing and dance now and again and welcome everyone to the party. Can it be raucous? Yes, it’s got something to do with our port heritage and the fact that Edinburgh tried to silence our voices all the way back in 1920 with an unauthorised public referendum on a merger between the two which we rejected out of hand but which they imposed anyway.


I’m all for people coming to live in Leith and like most of us, they will fall in love with the place. But you can’t just fall in love with a facade - you need to take on its heart and soul at the same time.


Otherwise, maybe it’s not for you.

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