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Tracy Griffen
Writer without Portfolio
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Melrose Tea Packing Works on Couper Street receiving a shipment of tea from Calcutta

For all the Tea in Leith

It’s true, tea is the new coffee. Just when you thought Leith Walk had gone peak flat white, there’s a new / old hot drink ready to take the limelight

Enter stage left – a cuppa tea!


“The path to Heaven passes through a teapot” is an ancient proverb, and it does depend on the brew. A lightly infused pot of loose leaf is my preference. Yes, a pot of tea. Hear this café owners, if you’re going to serve tea, please do it with respect, and preferably from a pot. It’s not as profitable as sticking a bag in a cup, but for the customer, “heaven does not necessarily pass through a teabag.” I wanted to acknowledge places that serve tea in pots, so asked for recommendations on the ‘I Love Leith’ Facebook page: Roseleaf, Leith Community Croft café, Sly Fox, Sweetland and Whispering Kettle all getting a mention.


Having discovered that Sea Breeze Café on Leith Walk is NOT closing down, I made the effort to cross the road for lunch. I can’t believe I’ve been living in Leith over 20 years and have hardly been. A full veggie breakfast for lunch and a mug of builders tea fortifies the soul and readies the body for teaching fitness. I will be back.


Being a port, Leith has a long history with tea. Both tea and coffee merchants shipped their wares through Leith. Andrew Melrose & Co. was a tea importer founded in 1812, based in Leith (Coburg Street and later Constitution Street) and the first to (legally) import tea into Scotland. In January 1836 a bumper haul of 1000 cases of tea arrived in Leith making tea available to people of all classes.


The new Leith tea revival is headed up by Pekoe tea, who were founded locally in 2008 and have a shop and tasting room at the Foot of the Walk, next to Logan & Malloch. I first tried Pekoe’s ‘Cloud Catcher’ fruit infusion on an autumnal afternoon at Ostara, a now-closed café near the Water of Leith. I will always remember that pot of tea…


Eteaket has also recently rehomed to Leith, in Giles Street nestled next to Mauve Tea Specialists. I can’t figure out if Mauve is just mail-order, or if they stock their tea somewhere, but I’ll find out. The Queen Charlotte Rooms are very handy for The Shore tram stop (that is not actually at The Shore, but that’s another story). Their afternoon teas are served upon the Orient Express. It’s just like being on a train, whilst being served scones nearly as big as your head. Afternoon tea with gusto, a dash of panache and super-friendly service. And tea served in proper pots.


For buying tea on Leith Walk, visit Hing Sing or Pat’s Chinese Supermarket for Yamamotoyama genmaicha. It’s Japanese green tea with toasted brown rice that tastes like toast (in a cup). Akdeniz Supermarket has an intriguing selection of continental blends, including herbal infusions.


You can also pick up teapots and Turkish coffee brewing kit there. And Taste of Poland just beside Pilrig Church has a literal wall of tea.


My favourite brew is humble mint. I love mint tea so much that I grew a mint farm* to serve in my fitness studio. I truly believe herbal infusions have health benefits. Mint has antibacterial and antiseptic qualities, one of the many reasons the plant is easy to grow and disease resistant. You can find mint in the Arthur Street planter* or from www.pureleith.com.


Enjoy cups of tea with friendly folk at Leith Festival Gala day, 10am to 5pm Saturday 13 June on Leith Links. The church stall usually gives out free hot drinks, including nicely brewed builder’s tea. There’s a plethora of tombola, a dog show, lots of stalls and local groups. You’ll find me in or around the Safer by Sound tent, a convivial marquee to enjoy a cuppa and hear some very talented musicians.


… and drink to your good health!


Tea served in Proper Pots

Roseleaf, 23/24 Sandport Place

Leith Community Croft Café,
4A John’s Place

Sly Fox, 16 Henderson Street

Sweetland, 239 Leith Walk

Whispering Kettle, 26 Albert Place
(on Leith Walk)

Sea Breeze Café, 261 Leith Walk

Queen Charlotte Rooms
56a Queen Charlotte Street

Tea Merchants

Pekoe Tea, 11 Leith Walk

Eteaket, 99 Giles Street

Mauve, 89 Giles Street

Grocery Stores

Hing Sing Chinese Supermarket,
310 Leith Walk

Pat’s Chinese Supermarket, 199 Leith Walk

Akdeniz Mediterranean Supermarket,
82-90 Leith Walk

Taste of Poland, 352 Leith Walk


*A mint farm is a recycling crate full of growing mint plants.


Bluesky@tracygriffen
IRL: @3 Balfour street

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