I stumbled across Newhaven: Its Origin and History by Anne Jane Cupples, wife of Victorian author, George Cupples, popular for his maritime novels in his day. She was a prolific author who wrote under her married name, Mrs. George Cupples. The Cupples lived in Admiralty House at the top of the Whale Brae - on what became known as Fishermen’s Park - until George Cupples’ death in 1891. During their time there, Mrs. Cupples engaged with the local fisherfolk, particularly the fishwives, as an unofficial social worker. As a consequence, her book contains much information that had been gleaned through her friendships.

Newhaven’s fishwives were famous for their unique attire, especially their “Braws” (Sunday best and worn on special days). This costume heavily attributes its origins to Flanders and the Low Countries.

Trade with continental Europe was already long established when King James IV built a Royal Dockyard in 1504 in the area that became Newhaven. To build his navy, the king recruited skilled craftsmen from Flanders and France.

Later, Flanders suffered heavily under the oppressive, despotic rules of the Austrian Emperor Charles V of Spain and his successor, Philip II. The Spanish Empire sought to destroy civil and religious liberties across the Low Countries (which then included modern-day Netherlands, Dutch-speaking Belgium, and Northern France). In response, many Flemish people fled to Scotland and England, bringing their exceptional trade skills, strong work ethic, and disciplined habits.

Tradition states that the Free Fishermen Society of Newhaven was originally formed around 1450 on the principles of the Low Countries’ Guilds. Because early records were lost, the Society was only formally recognised by James VI of Scotland in 1573 and became known as the Free Fishermen of Newhaven Immemorial.

Many common Newhaven surnames - such as Brand, Carnie, Flucker, and Linton - source back to this Flemish influx. Lasting evidence of their craftsmanship can still be admired in the ornate wooden ceiling of the Great Hall at Edinburgh Castle, carved by these artisans when they were not working on the famous warship, the Great Michael built in Newhaven. The garb of the Newhaven Fishwife is yet another.

The outfit consists of the shor’ goon, a long blouse with short sleeves, one side carefully laid in place across the other. Then the first of the cots, or petticoats, red and white striped and with a tape to tie it around the waist. Next is the yellow and white cot, which gave the Newhaven fisherwomen the name ‘yellow butterflies’, their Fisherrow counterparts having a blue one instead. This cot, too, is tied around the waist. The cots are heavy material of flannel.

Finally there is a cotton apron of blue and white stripes, also tied on, and a pooch (pouch) matching the shor’ goon. The apron, pinned inside the yellow cot, has to be kilted up over the red one, and pinned so that it hangs neatly in place. Not only are the cots thick, the yellow one has a sort of bustle, which was actually to help support the creel rather than to enhance the figure. Once the skirts are properly kilted and hanging correctly in a neat point, a broad satin ribbon is tied into a bow with nice long ends and pinned with a brooch on the bosom, also holding together the shor’ goon — remember there are no buttons. The outfit is crowned with a shawl, usually a beautiful Paisley one. When worn around the head, the ears were shown.

The outfit is completed with black shoes and white hosiery usually made of Lisle cotton.

Very few original costumes survive today. In response, local efforts are underway to source heavyweight fabrics and print them with accurate historical stripes to replicate the originals. The goal is to create replicas for lady volunteers to wear on Gala days and for the Community Choir.

An application has been made to Traditional Arts and Culture Scotland (TRAC Scotland) and UNESCO to protect this historic and unique costume. The initiative arose from conversations with two new residents of the village, Victoria Young and Dr Lindsay Udall (who has a PhD in Historical Archaeology) and two residents of the area (Susan Edwards and Elaine Greig) who have family ties that go back generations.

The community hopes that if UNESCO grants this formal cultural recognition, it might finally change the local Council’s sullen disregard for this historical jewel of Newhaven sitting right on the doorstep of Scotland’s capital.

Article by Gordon Young of Newhaven Heritage and Jane-Ann Liston